Estadio El Prado

The surface is natural grass, which tends to turn heavy after the winter rains. The plastic seats, donated to a club half a world away, give the stands a uniform grey look that does little to hide the age of the concrete beneath.

The atmosphere does not rely on grandeur. It relies on proximity. When the team camps in the final third, the supporters are close enough to shout over the roar of the passing traffic. The draw brought the club to face Real Madrid in the cup recently, and the table went out of the window in those games. The crowd roared them on, even though the result did not go their way. The ground does not pretend to be anything else. It is a place where the city comes to watch football, nothing more.