Stadion Rajko Mitić

The ground sits in a cut, a bowl scooped into the hillside rather than rising above it. That depression, dug out in the early 1960s, means the pitch is lower than the street. The sightlines are steep and close, and the concrete tiers, though worn and marked with decades of weather, still curl around the playing area.

It has carried several names, but it is known locally as Marakana. That nickname stuck long before the official renaming in 2014 to honour Rajko Mitić. The name itself points to the numbers: the original capacity dipped well over 100,000 before safety regulations reduced the total. The current figure hovers near 49,000, all seated, which makes the atmosphere tighter, the voices louder.

The architecture is less about spectacle than about endurance. The main stand, with its long, low roofline, faces south. Inside, the surface is a hybrid mix.

The history here is not written in plaques but in the matches played.