Estádio do Bonfim

The bowl once held something close to 35,000 people standing; individual seats went in over the following decades, and safety inspectors did the rest, closing upper tiers they judged unsound until the official number settled at 15,497.

The record attendance dates from a UEFA Cup night in November 1971, when 40,000 packed in to watch Vitória beat Spartak Moscow 4-0. Nothing since has come close, though the ground has hosted more than its own club: the Portugal national team played qualifiers there, a Portuguese Cup semi-final between Vitória de Setúbal and Vitória de Guimarães drew a big crowd in 2006, and in 2019 Belenenses SAD, unable to use their own stadium, played a top-flight fixture against Moreirense here in front of just 298 people — the lowest attendance recorded in a Primeira Liga match.

A plan for a new, 110-million-euro stadium was floated in 2007 and went nowhere. The old ground's position looked shakier still until 2020, when Setúbal's municipality bought the land rights from a bank for 1.5 million euros specifically to stop the Bonfim being demolished. Cândido Palma de Melo designed the original structure; no major rebuild has followed his work, only the slow subtraction of capacity that leaves today's stadium a smaller version of the one that opened in 1962.