Hala MOSiR w Olkuszu

That is the only way to find it by accident. Under the floor, heating keeps the surface playable when the Polish winter sets in, a practical necessity for a town that sees its share of snow. A retractable stage, fourteen metres wide, sits at one end, waiting for a cabaret or a local theatrical performance when the sporting calendar is quiet.

SPR Olkusz, the women's handball club founded in 2009, calls this floor home. They have played in the Superliga, Poland's top flight, and their presence gives the hall a rhythm it would otherwise lack. Other teams use the space too: AIG Olkusz plays amateur six-a-side football, and karate clubs gather for championships that draw athletes from across the region. The capacity is listed as 562, though some sources suggest a figure closer to 670. The difference is not significant; the hall is not built for record crowds, but for the regulars who fill the benches week after week.

The building underwent a major renovation around 2009, a time when the club was establishing itself in the top division. The work updated the facilities without changing the character of the place. It remains a modest venue, one that belongs to the town rather than to the wider sport. There is no attendance record to speak of, no legendary night that changed the history of the city. The hall simply exists, a place where games are played and events are held, anchored by the river that winds past its back door.