Tampereen jäähalli

The arena does not pretend to be a football ground. Hakametsä has always answered to two teams, Tappara and Ilves, who played there until the new Nokia Arena took their place. The old hall has been left to plan.

The shape is what you notice first. The building refused to go away even when the teams moved on.

Inside, the game is played on ice. There is no natural grass to cut up or water to flood. You do not need to look for a pitch. The seating has been cut back over the years, from the original terraces to the 7,300 spots that remain, though the number is not the point. The point is the space.

The only major change visible from the outside is the row of flags, which have changed colour more often than the teams have changed their minds. The entrance is small, tucked under the curve, and the pavement in front is wide enough to clear away the winter. The hall has hosted everything from ice hockey to volleyball, but the memory stays with the rink. The rest is secondary.