Sportpark Ostra

The ground keeps its old track. Above the terraces, the view across the centre is dominated by a different kind of dome. Rising from the far side, it stands as part of a sports complex.

Inside, the contrast is sharper. The new stands are clean, yet the surface beneath is not the green of a summer afternoon.

The arena has known heavier crowds. In the thirties, before the war, the place was full enough to watch a match between Germany and Czechoslovakia. After the floods in 2002, the capacity was cut back to something manageable. Now, the mobile grandstands can be dragged into position to hold 15,000 people, but on most days, the fixed seats are enough for the local club.

It opened in 1919 and has served the city through every change of government and every rebuild. The current renovation finished just in time for the new season, leaving the artificial turf to settle before the first whistle blows.