Sala Rapid

The Sala Polivalentă „Rapid” sits in the Giulești district of Bucharest.

There is a reason for the steepness. The stands on the right side are reserved for the away fans, so you can hear them shouting from the start of the game. The home supporters, the Legionari, sit on the left and wave flags that are often too large for the space, sometimes bumping into the people behind them. The sound is not a roar, like in a football stadium, but a sharp, rhythmic clapping that goes on for the whole ninety minutes.

The arena is also used for basketball and volleyball, but the handball is what gives it its character. The games are fast, and the players move quickly from one end of the court to the other. The stands are close enough that you can see the players' faces when they stop to catch their breath. The lights are not bright, but they are enough to keep the game visible. There is a small scoreboard at the far end, and a few advertising boards that have been up for a long time.

It is a humble place. There are no luxury boxes or a large media centre. The toilets are down a short corridor at the back, and there is a small shop in one of the entrances that sells scarves and programmes. For the people who live in Giulești, and for the supporters of Rapid București, it is the best place in Bucharest. It is a room where the game is played close to the people who watch it, and the distance between the players and the crowd is measured in inches.